Oh my days! Where do I start? How do I begin? What do I say to fully capture everything that happened today? So many surprises + the unexpected unveiling itself intermittently, it was awesome! So much variation, so many cool people, I’m elevated! I almost feel like I’m rediscovering myself, my modus operandi, my flow, and the love, the passion, the core ethos + energy underlying my enthusiasm for the outdoors. I’m tired as I write this but will give it my best shot to capture what I can whilst it’s raw.
The Hike
After flitting between Coniston car parks (£8 for the day, not cheap!) I started on Walna Scar Road, treading towards Brown Pike as the clouds hovered between the peaks. I must admit, the relief of the hills around me, the way they stood ablaze with a lively haze, was something I had never witnessed before. It almost reminded me of the Hallelujah Mountains from the the film Avatar because of how they swayed and lay in front of me.
On approach to Brown Pike, I was greeted by a couple who had just decided to turn back due to the limited visibility of the fells. It looked like everything above 650m was going to be smothered with cloud, which initially disappointed me a little, but wasn’t going to stop me from moving ahead! I’m not one to give up, they said they passed a couple who were continuing despite conditions, and so was I. It was muggy but dry, the visibility was about 10-15m ahead so I was content, and I am SO GLAD I did!
I tethered along the ridge line and passed through Buck Pike + Dow Crag, with the latter being the most technically challenging + dangerous part of the hike whilst in the clouds. When I reached Dow Crag, I realised that it was going to be a technical challenge and I just had to continue + enjoy it all at the same time. I could see why the couple were shook and decided to return, but all I did was remain to the left of the path where the relief was gradual and this kept me safe.
After making my way through Goat’s Hawse I embraced the whipping winds on Old Coniston Man, then whistled towards Brim Fell + Swirl How. When I reached the latter the clouds briefly lifted to reveal hints of Levers Water, and I then made my way around Great Carrs + Grey Friar, came back to Swirl How, then took the stimulating route of Prison Band + Keld Gill Head towards Whetherlam.
When I left Swirl How on this second occasion the day continued to evolve spectacularly, particularly as I passed through Whetherlam and made my way back to Coniston whilst overlooking Coniston Coppermines + Coniston Water. In the end, it was a 23km circuclar, I think the shortest distance I have done so far, but man it was absolutely epic!
Highlights
Wetherlam ridge/Coniston Fells
This will live with me forever. I’ll elaborate more below, but following some brilliant chats whilst hovering around Prison Band I whizzed up to Whetherlam, and had a whip + spring in my step thereafter. This side of the fells started to clear up and I awed ardently at the views I continued to have around me into the surrounding valleys, lakes, and fells.
It was indescribable. I felt high + in my element, unstoppable. With this relentless energy I let myself go + found my own stupendous viewpoint overlooking the copper mines, lakes + fells and stayed there for over an hour. I almost felt like I was in heaven, in paradise, centre stage of a postcard scene of serene beauty.
People
This was an epic day for meeting people too as I met some lovely, inspiring + humble people throughout the day bar the odd mood killer.
I admired Daniella for having the courage to hit the fells for the first time + do it solo as well! Yet although she had some decent boots, she had some casual jeans + relied on Google Maps, which was very concerning!! Oh my days, I’m glad I was able to guide her back to Coniston but it’s a shame people like her are hugely underprepared – it could have ended really horribly for her! How she came through the clouds OK I do not know, but it reminds me about how some people don’t realise how the mountains ain’t no joke + can never be underestimated – always take them seriously!
I met this local dude called Kit, who was the only one to positively comment on my vibrant orange pants (the rest always joked about how I would be easy to find!) + inspired me after saying how I was a brilliant walker + had the potential to do some big hikes. Thanks Kit! He told me to keep going, and I could tell he was struggling, but respect to you too my man! You keep it up as well, it will only do you good my friend. He definitely reminded me to be grateful for what I can do, particularly in moments where I feel I’m not doing enough.
I also met this guy who wild camped near Grey Friar, and these brothers who looked like twins yet were a few years apart in age on a couple of occasions at different points on the hills (which was cool to catch up). Yet it was Peter who really inspired me. It turned out he was from my old hometown, and I loved how he made a big deal of hitting each summit with high 5’s + hurrays! I love the energy! He was doing the Wainwright’s, so I wished him well with clocking them off.
Take me to the clouds above!
After being in the clouds for so long I started to sing (quite frequently!) the chorus of the song by LMC vs U2 called Take Me to the Clouds Above, a nostalgic + uplifting childhood anthem of mine, expressly at the point I let myself go wild + free and just let loose. The whole day simmered with a mystical energy, especially as I began my steps in a melancholic mood. The day started off warm + although it was windy in parts it was pleasant.
the whole day simmered with a mystical energy
I embraced these elements like greeting a gracious old friend from my hometown. You won’t ever experience mountain weather in your standard town/city (that’s not in the mountains of course!). I always feel invigorated + revitalised when I’m able to immerse myself in the extremes these spaces foster. To feel like I’m in a cloudy bubble floating in the wilderness and can’t be seen, and/or to deeply inhale + exhale the brisk breeze cleanly + freely – you can taste the cleanliness! It’s priceless, life-changing + wholesome. It’s worth any challenge, effort, obstacle to feel alive in those moments, to purr with every pore of your presence.
to purr with every pore of your presence
Lessons
#GUSH – are you enjoying yourself?
I was reminded of the significance of this feeling when I was within 50m of the summit of Old Coniston Man and this random older dude approached me + started chatting to me. The wind was so vigorous that his wife left us chatting and didn’t even say hello! The first question he asked me was ‘are you enjoying yourself?’
My response was intriguing as it was dominated by my disappointment at the poor visibility. Yet he reminded me about how great it was to be outdoors, particularly as we were living through an ongoing pandemic. My gratitude suddenly grew in the moment, along with a realisation of why I was there in the first place – to enjoy myself! I was reminded by my ethos of #GUSH, of expressing effusive adulation for everything I encounter. His words triggered a transformation of the rest of my day, and I am thankful. It’s a shame I never got his name and a selfie with him!
Kit
I think having a hydration pack is great as you can take regular short sips of water to inhibit dehydration whilst remaining on the move. However, to be safe, I should probably bring a bottle with me just in case anything goes wrong. Also, after some very technical downhill scrambling + traversing some crags, I realise that having proper walking boots rather than high level approach shoes will make a big difference moving forward. I think I’ve found a pair, let’s see how we get on with them.
Most magical day
I don’t want to set a precedence or benchmark for the remaining days of this trip, but this was not only one of the most magical days of this adventure, but one of my most magical hikes ever! It had it all, from technical to full out fun, and my mind is boggled to be frank.
Yes I’m disappointed I didn’t see views approaching and leaving Old Coniston Man, but you can’t recreate the experience I had of the area – that will forever remain unique to me, the people I encountered, to that moment in time. That’s special, that’s to be savoured + appreciated.
I live for days like this, and yearn for people to one day experience something like this. It’s difficult to put into words, but I know the potency of the panoramas + prevailing energies of nature will forever remain with me, and I’m grateful.
To view my photo album from this day visit: https://flic.kr/s/aHsmWQmpQ4
drBACKPACK 
One thought on “DALES to LAKES, Day 7: old coniston man”