DALES to LAKES, Day 8: kentmere horseshoe

I think I’m reaching a point where I’m now ready to return home + recharge for another round of hikes. My body certainly is I guess as I’m feeling the fatigue a little more than usual now I’ve wrapped things up today. This makes sense I guess considering this length + quantity of exertion is new, which is surprising considering how well I’m handling it! For instance, the Kentmere Horseshoe is considered challenging by hikers familiar with the Lake District but I managed it fine and felt OK during + after, even playing + drifting off route like I always do with little strain or stress!

The big question will be, what about the aftermath? My hope is my body will become stronger + better conditioned so I can do more things like this, in new spaces + places, on greater scales, in new countries + continents! So let’s try to sustain this to fuel those dreams, YEAH! Remember this feeling so I can maintain this motion!

So how about my mind, ready to return? Well, they’re inextricable (mind-body), but if we’re to go along with the dichotomy, not so sure. The inhalation, stimulation + elevation I experience literally + spiritually is incredible + wholesome for the soul. I feel it day by day when all I see is the bewildering beauty created by this Earth that has been here probably longer than civilisation and will remain in some form for a long time to come!

Let’s wind it back from the potentially obscure + abstract and talk about appreciation, recognition, realisation. Sometimes too much of something doesn’t enable you to appreciate the intricate details + moments, and the significance of you actually having the opportunity to experience something many will not experience in their lifetimes! That’s something to hold up high + be grateful for, to look within + above and say I’m blessed, thank you.

So yeah, that’s a little wide lens reflection for you after today’s circular!

The Hike

When I arrived at Kentmere village after a tricky drive through the valley the crags I saw on my left (Ewe Crags) looked awesome but when I began hiking towards Shipman’s Knott, the first peak on this trail, I admit I was disappointed. The valley housing Kentmere Reservoir looked small + unspectacular which ignited small reservations I had about this route. At Goat Scar I had a really cool view towards Sleddale Fell + Buckbarrow Crag, and the sound of the spring of Buckbarrow was serene too, whilst the view towards Longsleddale + the River Sprint was lovely. But I wasn’t deeply stirred, particularly after I pushed on towards Kentmere Pike and charged towards Harter Fell.

Once I reached Harter Fell, everything changed. I felt a new zip + surge rip through the views + hues around me and I just splurged with fresh momentum. It was a sudden steep relief that suddenly piqued my ponder and I charged ahead with wonder. I followed marked trails towards Mardle Ill Bell, then Racecourse Hill on an area known as High Street (I’m curious as to why), before roving through Thornthwaite Crag, Froswick, Ill Bell + Yoke before taking the scenic route back to Kentmere village via Garburn Pass + Crabtree Brow.

Highlights

High Street

WOW, was not prepared for nor expecting this! It’s ironic how last night I was scrambling through my maps wondering whether to do an alternative to this Kentmere Horseshore route and I poured through countless ways to explore the Helvellyn range. Then I stumble upon this bonkers plateau that enabled me to see the WHOLE range with just one look, in one sweep directly ahead of me. I had to stop + stare, soak it all in amidst the simmering sizzle of the sweeping summer sun. What a #FREESCENE, just epic + inspiring, and I found the perfect little silent spot to admire + revere it all.

The summit itself? Crowded, as lots of people sat for lunch amidst the hoards of flies buzzing by the rock piles. I met plenty of people who came up through Mardale Valley + Haweswater Reservoir, a route I may consider in the future. I was curious about why it was called High Street, but whilst I was there, I didn’t care. I just wanted to absorb the ambience.

Harter Fell to Mardle Ill Bell

Like I’ve mentioned, much of the hike prior to Harter Fell felt dreary + laborious. I was merely trudging along waiting for something to happen, and much eventually did in this steep section between these two peaks.

When I wandered down to make my way back up the dip in between, I slipped onto my backside for the first time throughout the whole trip! I was OK bar some minor abrasions on my arm, my clothing came away unscathed too. It meant I was starting to enjoy myself + zip around a little more despite the terrain becoming more technical.

The views on either side suddenly became more dramatic too, and a small family hugely uplifted me when they highlighted the extent + challenge of what I was doing in these Far Eastern Fells. It was the springboard I needed to bring the hike to life.

Hello old friend! – Troutbeck Valley + beyond

I have history with Troutbeck Valley that I will elaborate on below, and it was nice to see Troutbeck Tongue and all, including Lake Windermere in the distance. I could work out where I’d been before when looking across the Far Eastern Fells on my right, and had the chance to scope out Wansfell Pike which is a peak I’m very much looking forward to exploring on my next trip here. The charismatic views I had whilst charging through Froswick, Ill Bell + Yoke reaffirmed my decision to take navigate the horseshoe in an anti-clockwise direction.

Lessons

Wainwrights – do I or don’t I?

I’m in a bit of a quandary. So Alfred Wainwright is pretty much known as The Godfather of The Lake District in hillwalking circles. He developed a list now colloquially known as ‘The Wainwright Fells of The Lake District’ and it’s a popular challenge for people to complete, or ‘bag‘, all 214 summits on the list across the seven areas (he wrote a volume on each area) in which Wainwright divided the whole district into.

On one hand, it would be a great achievement for sure to have reached all 214 summits on the list, no doubt! I remember when I bought a map where all the fells are pinned years ago and I thought ‘woah, I would love to do all these fells’, but it was said more in jest than a vow with strong conviction.

When I think of time + opportunity, I would much rather explore something completely new + different rather than go back to the Lakes on a ‘mission’ to complete this challenge. Feels more like work, like a task, rather than freeform exploration. So I’m going to see how I feel with time, but put it this way – if I don’t go for all 214, I won’t be shedding any tears or feeling any sorrow. The meaning + feeling has always superseded numbers, heights, rankings + scores for me, and I hope always will.

Evolution

As the trip has progressed, so has the emphasis I give each day to appreciating the stirring moments I encounter. I’ve become better at stopping + sitting down to let such moments marinate into memory. Having early starts has hampered my punctuality with publishing articles but enabled me to foster such #FREESCENES and I am thankful.

Rescue

I said I would try and share life stories, so here is one. Many years ago, long before I completed my Mountain Leader training in North Wales, I was devastated by mistakes I made when taking a group of my friends out for a hike in the Lakes. I underestimated + miscalculated the pace + wider abilities of the group and we ended up having to call Mountain Rescue for assistance.

It was nearing midnight and we were veering through Troutbeck Valley via Stony Cove Pike + Threshthwaite Mouth. I made the call when we were overwhelmed by the darkness + had difficulty locating the trail. I was advised by the police call handler to stay put yet I refused because it wasn’t safe for us to stay static plus it would be more difficult for anyone to access our location. So I made the decision to reach the nearest road, and it paid off! As we got to the road we were met by the rescue team, who took us back to where we were staying and also agreed with what we did.

Yet despite the safe outcome I was mortified with myself and deeply remorseful to my friends + the rescue team. My friends were actually pretty cool about the whole situation, whilst most of the team were very understanding and supportive. Needless to say, I learned hugely from the experience and it was a huge factor in me undertaking my ML training.

Now you may read this and think, yeah, I had some unfinished business, some dark memories, in these fells, and in particular in Troutbeck Valley. Yet it was supplementary, because all I want to do is explore new places, not dwell on past experiences. It taught me a great deal + I learnt from it, we move forward. I just thought it was worth sharing really. What can appear as mistakes can be a blessing, as the lessons you learn may prevent greater tragedies from occurring in the future. That’s the way I always try to see things: never a mistake, always a reminder/lesson.

Sad realities

As I was leaving Kentmere in my car I came across a fellow solo hiker who may have been in need of help. She gave way as I passed through, yet from the moment I caught a glimpse of her she stirred a searing + smouldering sense of curiosity in me, one I hadn’t felt for a long time.

Have you ever been involved in a situation, come away and only realise a while later upon reflection what actually may have occurred? I do it too often, particularly when women are involved.

Anyway, throughout the aftermath I was reminded by the sad reality of the world we live in where you have to choose between helping others or protecting yourself. People may misinterpret your intentions, and/or presume you have malicious objectives. Is the risk worth taking? What may be the consequences? Huge questions you have to analyse + evaluate in snap moments. What is the end result? Too often, a potential fruitful exchange dissolving from destiny and increasing numbers of people becoming hardened distant strangers. That’s the sad reality.

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To view my photo album from this day visit: https://flic.kr/s/aHsmWV5Vk9