What an exceptional, extraordinary + evolutionary day this has been. So much to discuss + detail and I’m running against the clock! This day almost revitalised my love, my curiosity, for the Lakes. You know what? I actually think it may have achieved this, forget almost! Not right now, in the immediate short-term, but my experience today has definitely generated desire + excitement to return here in the future.
In short, I have to also say it was a beautiful day. Not ecstatic + euphoric like the song from U2 but serene, calm, steady, smooth, like a serenade from Sade Adu. I’m staggered really, was not expecting this, but I tasted so many new elements + happenings; my plan produced plenty picturesque moments of peace. I’m very grateful for what I’ve just experienced. I feel reassured + reaffirmed about my passion for the outdoors. Don’t know what else to say really and that’s OK.
The Hike
After the dreamlike drive through the Central Fells of the Lake District I arrived into Portinscale, a small village neighbouring Keswick, and fiddled + fumbled around the roads in my car until I found the great little car park in Skellgill I was searching for.
My hike began from here, with me first making my way through Cat Bells before the rain came down heavy around Maiden Moor + it made sure it was here to stay! There’s a lot of hype about Cat Bells in many walking guides, and although the views towards Bassenthwaite Lake, Derwent Water and towards surrounding fells were pretty cool, I wasn’t all that hyped myself when I was there. It was OK, but not epic on any level for me. I guess it’s easy accessibility makes it appealing.
Anyway, I doggedly trudged along towards High Spy, then dipped down towards Dalehead Tarn where I had some wet lunch before climbing up Dale Head. Now it turns out Dale Head was actually the highest peak I ascended throughout the day, and I normally name the day after the tallest peak. Yet I started the day off with Robinson as the headline, and you’ll see why I was more than glad to stick with it.
The rain had begun to calm down as soon as I reached the tarn, and it dissipated once I reached the summit of Dale Head. I went big as I originally envisaged, gliding along Hindscarth Edge towrds the cairn of Hindscarth itself before swinging back around and westwards towards Robinson, taking a w-shaped trail along these fells. From the tarn onwards, the mood evolved. The hike suddenly became iconic in stature and feeling, it was beautiful.
I enjoyed making my way down Robinson into Newlands Valley, even when the rain rampantly returned as I was scrambling down Robinson Crags! I took the longer, v-shaped scenic route to get across Newlands Beck, then followed the trail at the foot of Maiden Moor + Cat Bells to return to my car in Skellgill. Although short, I would describe this as the third leg of my hike, with it’s beginning as the moment I’m down off Robinson and in Newlands Valley. This is where the serenity simmering throughout the day became monumental as it was powered by the lush greens of the valley and the first blinding beams of sunshine of the day (just look at the article’s cover photo!).
Highlights
Robinson
I love valleys because of the grand views you get of the hollow(s) ahead of you whilst being surrounded by hills and/or waterfalls. The slender relief of the soup bowl you find yourself in almost envelopes you into your own little world; a bubble of bliss.
When I began to descend Robinson into Newlands Valley, the panorama had all this and more. I could see far into the distance of the Lake District ahead of me, towards the Northern Fells and more. The rain briefly returned RIGHT at the very moment I had to scramble down a couple of crags – there was no way I was going to walk down them, but it was fun + went well!
I could see horizons, clouds, endless possibilities. It was a heart-pounding moment, where your breath takes a pause, pulses bound, cease + bound some more. All that matters is adoring everything ahead of you, nothing more.
all that matters is adoring everything ahead of you, nothing more.
The winds at the time whipped me softly yet sharply, and even the rain sprayed it’s haze but I had to stop. It was magical, so new + special. I am blessed to have encountered so many views in the past yet this was something else. I know I say that quite often at times, but this was something different, even for the Lake District, and my experience of the place. It was beautiful, and I wish I had more time to just bask in the bubble of bliss I found myself in. I’m happy to share the pictures that will never do my feelings justice but will stimulate the sensations I felt when I was there, as they do right now as I write this.
it was magical, so new + special
Newlands Valley
This has to be the most gorgeous valley in the Lakes I’ve been in, almost! It’s hard to really compare, heck I can’t even recall the names of other valleys right now, but this was stunning. On so many occasions, once I was at the lowest point, walking through fields + trails, crossing the river, I just couldn’t help but stop + stare.
I came across this random guy who was staying at a nearby B&B with his Dad, he was really cool. According to him this is apparently one of the wettest areas of the Lakes, and you can see the results! The richness of green reminded me of being in Wicklow all those years ago, whilst the clarity of the sky was mesmerising after the flux in visibility I faced along the fells. As you can see in the cover photo, I had never seen a blaze of sunshine AND the haze of clouds lingering all in the same view, yet here it was at the end of my adventure. Marvellous.
Hindscarth
So usually I write highlights in chronological order, but this time I’ve written them in order of meaning and potency. It’s hard, then again, putting them in a linear order but it’s the way it has to be done. The weather had dried and suddenly I could see a lot more ahead of me. I had survived the onslaught of persistent rain + felt free in my feet. From what I remember, here is where I came to accept and was at peace with the big decision I had to make; it was almost a goal I set myself en route to these North Western Fells. I had to just speak out, talk to myself out loud whilst driving, and I came to the realisation that I had to come clean + act. It was great to come full circle whilst sat in a circle of stones with a heck of a view ahead of me.
Cat Bells to Dale End Tarn
I didn’t think I would be putting this as a highlight when I was stuck slugging it out for hours through constant heavy rain! But yes, it tested me + my gear, and it taught me a lot about myself. About how I am able to just zone in + focus on a goal, and activate all my willpower to drive on until I reach it. No questions, no ifs + buts, but how, where, when, and then persist.
It was murky, yes, and I got wet, yet there was some incredibly dramatic gaping views into Newlands Valley in between the crags of Maiden Moor + High Spy, and tantalising glimpses towards Derwent Water + Borrowdale. It was a time of survival, of things getting technical and just persevering. I must admit, I felt a bit rubbish at times because it was a mission in many ways, but now I’m done, I would do it all again and savour the challenge even more.
Lessons
How do you do it Wass?!
HAHA! I had to write this, mention this, because it’s like my mind’s catchphrase, the gong when the green is my bong + I’m high off inhaling the fresh o2 pluming from the blooming seeds + reeds. I know it’s the moment I feel #GUSH within, that I’ve discovered a #FREESCENE that makes me feel colossal + free. It’s the moment of clarity, of realisation, of hitting the high note of perfection of all that has transpired before me. Where I see the beauty of my spontaneity, the results it yields. Of truly feeling + believing I wouldn’t change an iota of the script I’ve just written, and that feels awesome. It’s bewildering + fulfilling, and I’m always grateful for it.
The Decision
Despite it’s magnitude, I wouldn’t say the decision I took was the biggest, most significant moment of the day. Yes it had a great impact in curtailing the length of my Living the Lakes adventure, but all the other moments + sensations I’ve described will live with me with greater potency forever.
So yes, after much deliberation + reflection I decided to cut my trip short and return home early. I was planning on taking in 10 days of activity, interspersed between break days, but in the end 3 was all that I was willing to do. I decided the easiest way to break it down would be into PROS + CONS, advantages + disadvantages of cutting it short, so I could comprehend it now and in the future when I revisit this. It was important for me to actively listen + process how I’m feeling.
PROS
– A place to revisit: I’ve grown slightly bored and tired of the Lakes, particularly the Eastern Fells and places like Windermere + Ambleside. I want to experience something new, something different. I want variety, extreme contrasts, diversity, in my life. Hence why it was going to be a fortnight bonanza so the future can be focused upon trips elsewhere, particularly overseas. Instead, I realise having bitesize breaks every now and then out here may revitalise the appreciation I have of the place.
– Capacity: I feel tired + overwhelmed in some ways, particularly physical. It doesn’t help that I had an adventure few weeks ago, then worked extensively then came back out. I need to reboot my body and coming back at a time when I have greater capacity to embrace everything may make it all more enjoyable.
– Share: maybe next time I may be able to enjoy things more because I’ll have company, someone, or a few people, to share all the moments with. I think it’s become clear how significant having people around is for me.
– Mood: if I’m not fully in the mood, and enjoying it now, then it becomes like work, like a mission, and not fun. It’s ultimately all about having fun, so if that’s not being fulfilled then you have to act.
CONS
– Lost opportunity: a big reason why I booked so many trips near one another because I may not ever get so much free time for a while again, so thought to make most of the opportunity I have. Leaving early wastes this chance, almost one in a lifetime, to do so much with this degree of flexibility.
– Costs: it will cost me more to do this all again, particularly with additional travel. Doing more days and travelling less makes it more cost efficient.
– Easy way out: leaving early because I’m not in the mood feels like I’m taking the easy way out and just giving up, something I’m not used to. I feel weak for it, not brave + strong.
After identifying, analysing + evaluating all these thoughts and feelings, I decided that I’d rather do things properly and come back another time than to be struggling and suffering for the wrong reasons. I had a choice, and although I partly perceived it as cowardice, sometimes the bravest thing one can do is react to their circumstances and change course accordingly. It takes great skill + character to do so, instead of being stubborn + not alert to the minutiae of the context you are engaged with.
I have no regrets, particularly as I went through a rigorous decision-making process instead of acting on impulse. I can always accept this at the time and in hindsight.
Tear up the rule book
Ah, I always believe in preparing for the worst and hoping for the best. You can’t really follow forecasts literally though as they quite often will blindside you! The forecasts for today were more or less inverse! The morning was supposed to be dry and the afternoon wet, yet the clouds decided to switch phases. Also, the high fells were supposed to be wet, whilst the lower ones were supposed to be dry, which makes total sense. Yet again it was the complete opposite! Prior to this trip I began separating hike into high + low fell walks, but after today, I’m tearing that typology up! Just embrace what comes your way, take on what you’re feeling on the fells, high, low, wherever, whatever the weather.
I love rain – new experience
A big reason why I’m content with the above and believe it wholeheartedly is because I realised how much I actually love the rain! I wouldn’t be amiss if I was to identify the rain on it’s own as a highlight in itself after this trip! We get so afraid of the elements, wanting to shield away from them + protect ourselves. Of course, makes sense to look after our health yet they can also be mega enriching.
In the case of rain, yes it was a slog clogging through it, particularly as my gear wasn’t performing massively well. Yet when it dissipated and the clouds began to lift, I had that revitalised + refreshed feeling you get when coming out of a powerful shower. You feel deeply cleansed, and everything around you breathes with the same energy you transmit + exude.
I remember looking around when I reached the summit of Dale Head, staring into the valley, going back + forth to catch a glimpse into Newlands Valley + beyond when the clouds briefly lifted then returned. It was a fun rinse + repeat, and that’s very much what everything in my existence experienced. A thorough flushing of crud + crust left everything it embraced blessed with zest. Each pore radiated with vigour, like it was ready to release another wave of harmony my way. It was absolutely beautiful; the colours, the currents, the breeze + the rhythms of feeling.
To view my photo album from this day visit: https://flic.kr/s/aHsmWQAEcx
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