East Scotland, Day 1: scotch corner to perth (via high cup nick)

Scotch Corner

Have you ever heard of Scotch Corner before? Off the bat it sounds cool. I had come across this place on road signs previously but never knew its history + significance.

In essence it is a junctional nodal point in North Yorkshire, with exits towards the Yorkshire Dales, the Lake District and Western Scotland, and North East England and Eastern Scotland. I love a good nodal point, as you always feel you’re at the centre of potential and possibility, faced with choices + options. You see it all in one hit, then ask yourself where next? It’s exciting!

Regarding it’s history, centuries ago the Romans won a battle and formed a major settlement here, building the first roads in this area and developing major routes to other parts of the country. Now there’s plenty of service facilities here for road travellers.

High Cup Nick

On Day 5 of my DALES to LAKES trip I met a guy called Ed hiking The Pennine Way solo, and he told me High Cup Nick was a standout scene for him between Kirk Yetholm on the Scottish Border, and Hawes in Yorkshire. I never forgot since he covered a stretch of nearly 150 miles and etched it onto my list of places to visit.

I left Scotch Corner with excitement before dawn and arrived into Dufton, a quaint village sitting on the south-western edge of the North Pennines AONB (Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty), during twilight. Sadly, the morning was overcast and much of High Cup Nick was smothered in cloud. It did, however, still make for dramatic scenes with literal hanging cliffs draped in dew (like my beard!).

I followed the Pennine Way track from Dufton up towards High Cup Nick, then ventured down into High Cup Gill, but massively underestimated how wet the terrain was and slipped!

Thankfully I got away with a minor finger laceration, and as luck would have it, the cliffs began to clear of cloud once I got down into the gill. How frustrating!

Nevertheless, the striking scenes towards the Dales and within the gill were mesmerising, as was hovering within the hollowed space around me. I may not have captured a picture-perfect view from the top of High Cup Nick, but what I did experience was surreal.

Dufton Ghyll Wood

Weaving through High Cup Gill ploughed open a breathtaking panorama of views reaching far out west towards Cumbria and the Lake District National Park.

Not long after capturing these pictures I bumped into a lovely couple heading in the other direction as I strolled towards Dufton Ghyll Wood. I felt slightly disappointed to be leaving the fells with the clouds clearing, but the views looking back as I rolled along the road were delightful.

The morning continued to grow with brightness + vigour, and I must admit to feeling astonished when within the wood.

The autumn colours felt simultaneously soothing and enriching, like I’d discovered something I didn’t realise I was missing. I felt like I was having fun and wanted to scream it out loud. But I didn’t. Taking plenty of crisp pictures sufficed instead.

A74(M)

Why am I talking about roads and junctions again? I don’t know. Maybe it was because I didn’t do much hiking on this day and instead mowed up motor miles into Scotland. Then again, I did walk 16km, then drive 210 miles, so I did churn up plenty of distance by foot + tyre.

Maybe it’s because it was a simple + scenic drive. Motorway driving is typically boring, especially in a car as opposed to a motorbike, where you’re being engrossed by the elements instead of tinkering in a tin box. Yet this was different, as gliding between the Dales + Lakes, then crossing the Scottish Border, was pleasantly refreshing.

Perth

The sun had set on my arrival into Perth, and I playfully perched on my hotel room chair to prepare a platter of plots and plans for the rest of my week in East Scotland. Yet a trip to Scotland would not be complete without locally sourced Fish and Chips! So I dined well then carefully curated a course of craft + adventure.

It felt good to be back in Scotland.


To view my photo album from this day visit: https://flic.kr/s/aHBqjzCYM6

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