Ah, so it begins! Have you ever come across the concept of tolerance in the context of recreational drugs? Completely random I know, but it’s relevant so keep following me through. When someone reaches tolerance of a drug, it no longer has the desired effect and outcome. I dislike what I’m about to say as I feel it conveys a potential lack of gratitude considering the opportunity I have right now, but I think I’m reaching a point where hills, valleys, waterfalls, mountains and more in the UK are no longer having the desired effect they once had.
Today I was able to recall past visits to The Lake District along my route, identifying locations I had purveyed my presence over. The energy + excitement I felt on those first moments was ecstatic, almost incredulous that something like what I was witnessing could exist. I don’t feel the same fervour + vigour anymore, and that saddens me. I mean, it makes sense because of what I have already experienced, but it’s sad that I cannot feel bewildered to the same extent. I do + don’t know what to do really. What I will do is try to make the most out of the time I have here, but what I don’t know is how long that will be. I am seriously contemplating cutting short my time and leaving.
The Hike
So starting in Ambleside I walked through Skelghyll Wood past Jenkin Crag, following a well marked trail into Troutbeck village. Before getting to the village I took a little detour along a stream near The Hundred, a disused track, but it was a waste of time + energy, although it gave me the chance to properly test my boots on unmarked + wet terrain.
I walked through Troutbeck Valley towards The Tongue, and managed to find a well-marked trail that hasn’t been noted by OS Maps, which was a shame yet also a relief that made it straightforward getting to the top. Getting down was even more trickier since I had to find more trails + just follow bearings along thick, wet grass + through a waterlogged wood that had no trails.
It got very technical getting through until I reached the A592, home to Kirkstone Pass (although I didn’t visit it this time, it looked great from afar). From here I hooked onto a boggy, long but well-marked trail towards Wansfell Pike, where I played around off trail until I veered towards the path I had planned, popped into Stockghyll Force then came back to where I’m staying. After my dinner, I chilled by Ambleside Pier.
Highlights
Jenkin Crag (or nearby!)
It was damp in the air, with intermittent drizzles stirring contemplations of what layers I should don. I had this view suddenly unfurl in front of me of Lake Windermere, it was wonderful + I tried to let it marinate (hence the cover photo of this article!). But the rain had other ideas and it wasn’t pleasant for me to sit + snack on my Snickers bar so I tracked on. But yes, it was a stimulating reminder of how scenic views can slap you in the face with bliss.
The Tongue
I had lovely views over Troutbeck + towards Threshthwaite Mouth from either end of The Tongue when I reached the top plateau. I found it pleasing to trace where I had gone when I was last here, including going through the gate where I met Mountain Rescue with my friends all those years ago. It’s unique + distinct, and you can see why it got it’s name, especially when you look over it from surrounding higher peaks.
Wansfell Pike
Although it was a long, slow trudge up Wansfell from the A592, with a lot of boggy sections, when I drew higher and closer to the summit it was pretty epic I must say. The views had suddenly become panoramic and I could see into multiple valleys, and the clarity was astounding. I was pretty surprised to be honest considering the forecast and although it was blistery up top, I didn’t care. I took it all in my stride, but when I reached the summit and peered over Lake Windermere, it was fun but I wasn’t stunned. I was happy to sit + soak it all up, but the inclination to #GUSH wasn’t there.
Ambleside Pier
At the end of the day as the sun set following a well-earned dinner it was melodically tranquil across Ambleside Pier. I finished my munch + decided to take a pew at the end of the walkway I could see from my bedroom window. It reminded me of the simplicity of beauty, of experiencing the world in myriad ways. I saw a guy just mellowing out on a nearby bench, his vibe was humming with the hues of the lake’s moody blues. For a moment I felt in awe of how he was just so serene + chill, yet simultaneously starstruck. Sometimes sitting + soaking in your surroundings can topple the mightiest of fell views.
Lessons
Don’t fix what’s not broken
So what I did for my DALES to LAKES trip, hiking nearly 180km over 7 days (non-consecutive, 1 day break in between) was a pretty great achievement I think. I never fully appreciated how well my footwear served me. I think the only question I still had in the back of my head was how well they would serve me in wet weather, as they handled everything else including rocky terrain. So that’s why I invested in some mountaineering boots.
So I tried them out properly today and my days, I’ve had several issues that have made me appreciate even more the pair I already have! My big toes and sides of my ankles are sore, and I’m pretty sure I was given the wrong insoles plus the leather seems to have expanded! This was despite the advice I was given by someone in store, so not pleased and they will be going back. It did kill my mood a bit when I came down Wansfell and had a complete view of Lake Windermere in front of me, but you live + learn.
Hard to believe weather forecasts!
The forecast looked grim for Ambleside + Troutbeck for most of the day, yet bar intermittent drizzles during the morning hours until noon I had incredible cool warmth + great visibility. I could even see out towards the Irish Sea on approach to Wansfell Pike! Staggering really, it’s a shame I left my sunglasses in my car! But yes, the forecasts get it wrong quite often, the weather is so unpredictable and its often best to be prepared for anything. On the other hand, this spell of dry weather has given me some hope for the rest of this trip, so we’ll see what happens. But I am also accepting that I will get wet at some point.
Early starts mean better finishes
During the second half of my DALES to LAKES trip I switched strategy and made a concerted effort to start early, and I noticed the results almost instantly! I was finishing in good time, and not rushing to get back before dark! I guess better route planning and terrain easier to plot across factored in, but yes, arriving in good time + getting into gear early helped me relax and take things in much more calmly. Just absorb everything, take more time to pause + absorb rather than drift + split. This will become even more crucial in the coming months as the days get shorter again.
Human connection
I pondered plenty about people today. In recent trips I’ve been able to accept + embrace my solitude, at times view it as an opportunity to do me, be me, sail free + all that. There are times I’ve not truly, completely felt alone because there’s so much life in the elements around me.
Yet today I think I also came to an acceptance of my burning desire for people, for human connection and interaction. The energy, intellectual stimulation, emotional exchange, are fuel for my soul to respire, huge ingredients. I’m someone who has always thrived on caring for, entertaining, and just witnessing/absorbing/discovering + engaging with human possibilities! I lack this in my life, and so maybe I’m in the wrong place considering how big this desire burns.
But what can I do. Solitude is a place that I can rely upon to be accepted, respected, + seldom neglected. People I encounter these days just provoke too much negativity + hostility with my spirit. Tell me where do I go, where can I find people with whom I can share a meaningful and sustained connection? I feel lost.
Grief
I also wonder if I’m grieving. In the last couple of years I came across this concept of living loss, where people experience grief without death. I put this in the context of people, where scores of individuals who were once in my life, who held a strong meaning at some point + I shared an emotional connection with, are gone yet living. I’m not going to delve into the reasons + contexts here, but I’ve lost more in these last 18 months. I wouldn’t say it’s anything to do with the pandemic really, just life, and it hurts.
But yes, today I came to the realisation that I might be feeling bereaved having lost friends; people have disappeared from my existence. It almost helps explain the mournful mood effervescing throughout my recent articles recounting my trips. I’ve been feeling an array of emotions but struggling to pin the root source, and doing so will now hopefully help me deal with the pain I feel.
To view my photo album from this day visit: https://flic.kr/s/aHsmWQyUwZ
drBACKPACK 